The Power of Natural Dyes
Mr. Mahalingam Vadivel
Retired Assistant Director (Textile Wet Processing)
Weavers’ Service Centre, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India
Before the first discovery of synthetic dye in 1856, all colors obtained from nature. Mr. Mahalingam rekindled interest in this lost art, helping to document and disseminate knowledge about natural dye sources and processes. His curated chart outlines sources for colors such as:
LAC
It is derived from the lac or resin secreted by Kerria lacca onto sticks. These organic dyes and pigments give red & violet colour & change with the change of pretreatment auxiliary in the process of dyeing. The dye also has anti-microbial properties.
INDIGO
Indigo natural dye pigment derived from the plant Indigofera tinctoria. The pigment gives deep blue colour & is used to dye wool, silk and cotton.
Indigo dye is perhaps the most known of all the natural dyes known to mankind
TERMINALIA CHEBULA
Natural dye is extracted from the fruit of the Terminalia chebula. It is also known as Harad or Harataki in India. The pigment gives yellow, khaki & grey colour & changes with the change of pretreatment auxiliary in the process of dyeing. It also has anti-microbial and astringent properties.
POMEGRANATE
Natural dye is extracted from the rind or peel of the Punica granatum, that is pomegranate. The pigment gives yellow, khaki & grey colour & changes with the change of pretreatment auxiliary in the process of dyeing.
MORDANT & MODIFIERS
Natural Vegetable Dye works best on natural materials like cotton, silk, wool etc. Even among the natural fabrics, the dye bonds better with fabrics like silk or materials which naturally contain tannins. For others, mordant is used.
Mordant helps the natural dye pigments bind and fix to the fabric so that it doesn't just wash out with water and to achieve a greater range of shades from a natural material, substances called modifiers are used. It is added after the dyeing to change the colour of your fibre or fabric.
Both Mordants and Modifiers can be obtained from natural sources, thus eliminating the need for any synthetic man-made chemical.
Natural vs Synthetic – A Thoughtful Comparison
In his carefully documented analysis, Mr. Mahalingam contrasted natural dyes and synthetic dyes across 14 parameters, highlighting crucial facts:
- Natural dyes are biodegradable, non-toxic, and enrich rural economies
- Synthetic dyes contain toxic metals, salt-heavy effluents, and non-degradable chemicals
- Natural dyes work well across a wider shade range, provide UV protection, and can be used in low-cost decentralized systems
- Synthetic dyes may offer brighter shades, but at a high environmental and health cost
This side-by-side comparison served not only as an educational tool but also as a call for policy and consumer awareness in choosing sustainable fashion options.